Torvehallerne - Copenhagen

About a month ago I read an article on the NYTimes about the new Torvehallerne, a (partially) covered marketplace with gourmet specialties in Copenhagen. Being a fan of Copenhagen, marketplaces and food, I decided to try it on out recent trip to Copenhagen.

It was funny to see how they turned a parking lot, which I used to pass by everyday while I lived in Copenhagen, in 2 parallel covered structures filled with gourmet stands. There are like 3 or 4 bakeries offering delicious cupcakes and Danish pastries, an Italian deli with great sandwiches, sushi and tapas places, fruit and fish stands, butcher, florist and even an ecologic kebab cart outside: a foodies paradise!
But after visiting the Boqueria market in Barcelona and the newly refurbished San Miguel market in Madrid, I was a bit disappointed with the architecture of Torvehallerne. First of all, we are in Denmark, it rains and snows often from September to June so what's the point of dividing the two structures? If one wants to go from one structure to the other and it's raining/snowing, one has to cross this open-air space to get there; why not making a unique, big covered structure? Also, there are tables outside and a couple of stools at some of the food stands inside; while it's nice to grab a sandwich or coffee and enjoy it outside sitting in a bench on a sunny summer afternoon, again, what do you do when it's raining/snowing? Since there was a lot of space and since they were building something new, it would have been nicer to get tables and stools in a covered space, like a food court maybe.
However, my favorite spot in Torvehallerne remains Agnes Cupcakes ***CLOSED***, I've tried their cupcakes from the other location in Sværtegade some months ago and loved them (their apple cupcake is to die for!). Apparently cupcakes are the new must in Copenhagen so don't forget to pay a visit to Agnes and Torvehallerne!

Torvehallerne is located in Frederiksborggade, just off Norreport Station. While coffee shops and bakeries are open everyday from 7 to 21, the rest of the stands have different opening hours (closed on Mondays) so make sure you check the website before visiting.

Yo me bajo en Atocha... (Madrid)

There's a song by singer and poet Joaquín Sabina called "Yo me bajo en Atocha" (I'll get off in Atocha - Madrid train station-); the place, Atocha, is sadly remembered by all of us because it was where the terrorist attacks of March 11, 2004 took place. The song talks about the beautiful city of Madrid, its art, its monuments and its culture.

view of Atocha station from the Museo Reina Sofía

So here's my personal guide to the city:

FOOD&DRINK
- Cervecería La Fabrica - Calle del Jesus, 2 - Best tapas (called canapés), small bar near the Prado, discrete selection of wines & drinks, local environment - Must eats: canapés al salmon / pulpo a la gallega (octopus w/garlic, oil & paprika) / bacalao / jamón ibérico (best variety of ham in Spain).
- Mercado de San Miguel - Plaza San Miguel, 1 - Historic site, it was an old market that has been rebuilt recently, inside you will find nice gourmeries where  you can taste good fresh seafood, wine and oysters, just steps from Puerta del Sol - it's always crowded so be patient.

Mercado de San Miguel from the outside

- Cervecería Alemana - Plaza Santa Ana, 6 - Nice place to hang out in the city center, to get a cold beer and do some people-watching in the square.
- For a drink and a snack, any bar in La Latina quarter, just pick the one you like.
- Museo del Jamón - various locations - You won't have trouble finding one of these restaurants decorated with ham. Open for breakfast, lunch, dinner or just a quick snack, they offer all kinds of cold meats (ham, chorizo, etc.) and typical dishes at very good prices. Some of their locations in the city center: Calle Alcalá, 155 - Gran Vía, 72 - Calle Atocha, 54

inside Museo del Jamón

ACCOMMODATION
Hostal Bruña:definitely not a 5-star hotel, this cozy little family hotel is in a quiet square steps away from the Prado museum and Atocha train station. Don't expect pools or spa (or breakfast), but just a very clean, simple room with bathroom; which is all you need after a full day wandering around Madrid. There are some good bars in the area so meals are not a problem. Oh, and the prices are really good!

SIGHTSEEING
The usual: Prado, Reina Sofía and Thyssen museums (all conveniently located not far from each other) - check on their websites when they offer free or reduced entrance fees; a walk in the Retiro park; typical sightseeing in Puerta del Sol, the royal palace, the Cibeles fountain, the Alcalá gate, etc.

the Alcalá gate

DAY TRIPS
- Toledo 
- Alcalá de Henares (Cervantes' birthplace)
- Escorial

somewhere in beautiful Toledo

SHOPPING
On the Gran Vía (Madrid's main street) you can find at least one shop of the main Spanish street fashion chains (which are a bit cheaper than in any other country): Zara, Mango, Bershka, Stradivarius, Pull&Bear, Oysho, Blanco, Women's Secret, Sfera, etc.
On Calle de Fuencarral, a street off the Gran Vía, you can find other famous brands like Desigual, Adolfo Dominguez and other Spanish and foreign designers.
Between Puerta del Sol and Callao squares you can find bigger shops and department stores like: El Corte Inglés, Fnac, H&M, etc.
For boutique shopping (pricey), Calle Serrano is the destination.

FAVORITE EXPERIENCES
- Having breakfast with oysters and cava wine at Mercado San Miguel
- Having a "quick snack" with a glass of Albariño and a delicious plate of pulpo a la gallega at Cervecería La Fábrica any time of the day.

Update: check out the folder "My Maps" to see a map of Madrid with all the spots in this post: http://www.tfoodie.com/p/my-maps.html