Snapshots (& food) of Cordoba

"Nunca merezcan mis ausentes ojos
Ver tu muro, tus torres y tu río,
Tu llano y sierra, ¡oh patria, oh flor de España!"
- Luis de Góngora, A Córdoba
([if] my absent eyes should never again deserve
 to see your walls, your tower and your river 
your plain and mountains, my homeland, the flower of Spain!)

Cordoba might be considered a small city now, but as we read in this post, it was once the capital of Al-Andalus (Islamic Spain) and the center of its cultural and political life.

The origins of Cordoba date back to Roman times, when it was the capital of the province of Baetica and the largest city in the peninsula. Remains of this period can be seen in the ruins of the Roman Temple and the Roman bridge over the Guadalquivir which has been restored and hosts now the statue of St. Raphael, patron saint of the city.

During the Islamic years, it became the largest city in Europe, the construction of the Mosque and the Medina Al-Zahara (see coming post) are proof of this glorious past. But also during those periods, an important part of the city was developed, the Judería, or Jewish quarter, with its beautiful narrow streets and patios. This is where commerce was organised in streets according to the trade goods they offered.

The Historic Center of Cordoba and the Judería are also in the UNESCO World Heritage list and they are a must visit (especially in May, when the Patios & Balcones festival and contest help the city boost the beauty of its streets).

After a long walk through the Judería and along the Quadalquivir, we stopped for dinner (still full from the lunch at Mercado Victoria) at the famous Bodegas Campos, the restaurant of the historic wine cellar, founded in 1908 and since then host of celebrities, heads of State and royals.
We enjoyed some glasses of wine, a delicious "tabla" of jamón, chorizo and cheese and some jamón croquettes in the nice atmosphere of its Taberna. Prices are not as high as you might think and quality is excellent.

The walk back to the hotel through the silent narrow streets and the lightened Roman Temple were the perfect way to end our visit to this wonderful city.

Bodegas Campos
Calle Lineros, 32 · 14002 Córdoba
Tel. +34 957 49 75 00
Open daily from 13.00 to 16.00 and from 20.30 to 23.00

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